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Speaker Sensitivity Tester

This speaker sensitivity tester lets you compare how loud two speakers play at the same amplifier setting using your microphone, and work out the amplifier power needed to hit a target loudness at your seat. A built-in amplifier power calculator turns a rated sensitivity (dB/W/m), target SPL and distance into the watts needed for SPL at your listening position, including headroom.

ℹ Your microphone is not calibrated, so this tool cannot read absolute sensitivity (dB SPL at 1 W / 1 m). The mic test only gives a RELATIVE level difference in dB between two speakers measured in the same spot at the same volume — useful for matching a pair or spotting the louder one, not for a spec sheet. Turn off mic auto-gain / noise suppression (this tool requests that), keep the mic and amp untouched between A and B, and for real figures use a calibrated SPL meter at 1 m. The power calculator is exact maths from your inputs; its answer is only as good as the sensitivity number you type.

Play the same test signal at the same amp/volume setting through speaker A, capture its average level, then physically swap to speaker B (or switch your amp to it) without touching the volume or the mic, capture B, and read the relative difference. Place the mic at one fixed listening spot for both.

🔊 Safe-volume notice: the test signal plays through your speakers. Start low and raise gradually. Keep the amplifier volume identical for A and B — that is the whole point of the comparison. Loud, sustained tones can damage hearing and tweeters; protect both.

Idle. Press “Start & play signal” to begin (you’ll be asked for mic permission).
Live level: —
Speaker A
Difference (A − B)
Speaker B

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How It Works

Speaker sensitivity (sometimes loosely called efficiency) is how loud a speaker plays for a given input, quoted as dB SPL measured at 1 metre with 1 watt of input — written “dB/W/m” or “dB @ 1W/1m”. A higher number means more loudness for the same power: a 90 dB/W/m speaker is 3 dB louder than an 87 dB/W/m one driven identically, which is the same as doubling the amplifier power. Sensitivity is set by the driver and cabinet design and is independent of the volume knob; it tells you how much amplifier you need. Note that sensitivity and efficiency are related but not identical: sensitivity is measured at a fixed voltage (2.83 V, which equals 1 W into 8 Ω), while true efficiency is the percentage of input electrical power converted to acoustic power — typically 0.1–3 % for a conventional moving-coil driver. A 4 Ω speaker driven with 2.83 V actually receives 2 W, so its sensitivity figure looks 3 dB higher than an otherwise identical 8 Ω model — always check which impedance a spec is referenced to.

Measuring the absolute figure properly requires a calibrated measurement microphone and SPL meter in a controlled space, a known 1-watt drive level (2.83 V into a nominal 8 Ω load), and the mic exactly 1 m on axis. A phone or laptop mic is not calibrated: it has its own frequency response, unknown gain, and usually automatic gain control that fights you. So this tool does not try to report an absolute sensitivity number. Instead, the mic mode does something a phone mic can do honestly: a sensitivity comparison between two speakers. With the amplifier set once and never touched, you run a speaker A/B test: play the same signal through speaker A and capture the average level the mic sees, then through speaker B in the same spot, and the tool reports the difference in dB. Because both speakers share the same (unknown) mic gain and room, that difference is a meaningful relative level difference even though neither absolute reading is calibrated. If you want to check how two speakers compare across the audio spectrum rather than just an averaged level, the speaker frequency response test sweeps the full bandwidth and plots the relative curve for each speaker.

The power calculator is exact arithmetic from your inputs. To reach a target SPL at distance d, the speaker first loses level over distance by the inverse-square law — about 20·log10(d) dB relative to its 1 m rating (about −6 dB for every doubling of distance) in a free field. The level still needed above the 1 watt rating then comes from power as 10·log10(P) dB (+3 dB per doubling of watts). Solving for power gives P = 10^((target − sensitivity + 20·log10(d)) / 10) watts at the seat, and the tool also adds your chosen peak headroom so transients do not clip. Real rooms add some bass gain from room gain and boundary reinforcement, so the true power needed is often a little less than the free-field figure — treat the result as a sensible upper estimate, not a guarantee. For a standalone look at how level falls with distance, the inverse square law calculator lets you explore any source-distance combination independently.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can this tool tell me a speaker’s real sensitivity in dB/W/m?
No. An absolute sensitivity figure needs a calibrated measurement microphone and SPL meter, a known 1-watt drive (2.83 V into 8 Ω) and the mic exactly 1 m on axis in a controlled space. A phone or laptop mic has unknown gain and its own coloured response, so it cannot read absolute SPL. This tool only reports the relative level difference between two speakers measured in the same spot at the same amp setting.
Why must the amplifier volume stay the same between A and B?
The relative comparison only works if the only thing that changes is the speaker. If you nudge the volume, change the mic position, or the room conditions shift, the difference you read is contaminated by those changes rather than reflecting the speakers. Set the level once, capture A, swap to B without touching anything, and capture B.
Why turn off auto-gain and noise suppression?
Automatic gain control quietly raises or lowers the mic level to keep things “even”, which destroys any level comparison — the louder speaker would be turned down to match the quieter one. Noise suppression and echo cancellation also alter the signal. This tool requests the mic with all three disabled, but some operating systems still apply their own processing, so use the most basic mic mode you can.
How does the power calculator decide how many watts I need?
It solves the standard relations: distance loss is about 20·log10(d) dB versus the 1 m rating (−6 dB per doubling of distance), and amplifier power adds 10·log10(P) dB (+3 dB per doubling of watts). So watts at the seat = 10^((target − sensitivity + 20·log10(distance)) / 10), and it adds your headroom margin on top so peaks don’t clip. It is exact maths on your inputs; real rooms usually need a bit less because boundaries add gain.
What should I use for a proper, trustworthy measurement?
For absolute sensitivity or response, use a calibrated measurement microphone (e.g. a USB measurement mic with a calibration file) plus software such as REW, or a calibrated SPL meter at 1 m driven with a known 1-watt level. For amplifier impedance loads and true 1-watt drive you need a multimeter or a jig like DATS. Treat browser-mic results as a relative listening aid only.
What is a good speaker sensitivity rating, and how much does it matter?
Most home Hi-Fi and bookshelf speakers fall between 84 dB/W/m and 92 dB/W/m. Anything below 84 dB is considered low-sensitivity and demands a more powerful amplifier; above 95 dB is high-sensitivity, typical of horn-loaded or professional PA drivers. The difference matters more than it looks: a 3 dB gap requires double the amplifier power to close, so pairing a low-sensitivity speaker with a low-wattage amplifier can leave you running out of headroom before reaching a comfortable listening level.
Can I match two speakers with different sensitivity ratings in the same system?
Yes, but you must compensate. If speaker A rates 90 dB/W/m and speaker B rates 87 dB/W/m, B will play 3 dB quieter at the same amplifier setting — an audible imbalance that shifts the stereo image. You can equalise the levels by adding 3 dB of attenuation to the A channel (using a passive attenuator, L-pad, or the amplifier’s balance control). Use the relative A/B mic mode in this tool to measure the actual level difference first, then dial it in precisely rather than relying on the spec-sheet numbers alone.
Why does the power calculator use pink noise as the recommended test signal?
Pink noise has equal energy per octave, so it excites all frequency bands of the speaker roughly equally and gives an average level that broadly represents real-world programme material. A 1 kHz sine tone would give an accurate reading at that one frequency but may not reflect the speaker’s overall efficiency across the band. For the A/B comparison specifically, pink noise also averages out minor room resonances more reliably than a narrow-band tone, making the captured RMS level more stable and repeatable between the two captures.