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Subwoofer Crossover Frequency Optimizer

Tell the tool your mains' −3 dB point, your room's longest dimension, and the crossover slope — it returns the recommended subwoofer crossover frequency, flags any nearby room-mode booms, and plots the live sub + mains blend. Sweep the fc slider to feel the trade-off in real time.

Input

Bookshelf: 50–80 Hz · Floorstander: 30–45 Hz · Mini-monitor: 70–100 Hz. Look this up in your speaker's spec sheet.
Used to flag axial room-mode booms near your crossover. Use the longest of length / width / height.
24 dB/oct Linkwitz-Riley is the industry-standard active subwoofer crossover.
Slide to override the recommendation and see how the blend changes. Changing any of the inputs above resets fc to the new recommendation — use the button to snap back.

Result

Reasoning & room modes
Sub + Mains blend (20–500 Hz) — red dashes mark axial room modes

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How to Set a Subwoofer Crossover

A subwoofer crossover hands off low-frequency duty from your main speakers to the sub. Set it too high and you'll hear the sub (it'll sound boomy and "localizable" — your ear can tell where it's coming from). Set it too low and there's a hole in the bass where the mains have rolled off but the sub hasn't taken over yet. The art is finding the smooth handoff point.

The 1.3× rule

A safe starting point is 1.3 × your mains' −3 dB point, rounded to a convenient value (5 Hz steps work well — most AVRs let you pick 40, 60, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120 Hz). A speaker spec'd at 60 Hz (−3 dB) suggests a sub crossover around 80 Hz; a 40 Hz floorstander suggests 60 Hz.

The THX/SMPTE 80 Hz standard

Movie theatres and the THX cinema standard use 80 Hz with a 24 dB/oct Linkwitz-Riley crossover. Below 80 Hz, human ears struggle to localize sound, so the sub can sit anywhere in the room and still sound integrated. This 80 Hz setting is also the default LFE crossover reference in most home theatre receivers — even though the dedicated LFE (.1) channel bypasses bass management and goes directly to the sub, the bass-management crossover for the remaining channels still follows the same 80 Hz standard. It's a great fall-back if you don't know your mains' f3.

Why 24 dB/oct Linkwitz-Riley?

The crossover slope controls how sharply the sub's lowpass and the mains' highpass roll off around fc. A 24 dB/oct Linkwitz-Riley slope is steep enough to prevent the sub bleeding into the localisable region, and gentle enough not to mangle phase too violently. Critically, two Linkwitz-Riley filters of the same order summing flat (at −6 dB each at fc, same polarity for LR4) means no peak or dip at the crossover — the response is smooth. Most active subs implement an LR4 24 dB/oct lowpass internally.

Room modes — the silent saboteur

Every room has resonance frequencies (modes) where standing waves boost certain bass notes. For a rectangular room, the strongest mode along the longest dimension is at f = c / (2L) where c = 343 m/s. A 5-metre-long room has a first axial mode at 34 Hz, second at 69 Hz, third at 103 Hz. If your subwoofer crossover lands near one of these, that frequency will boom — sometimes 6–10 dB louder than the rest. The optimizer flags collisions and nudges the recommendation upward by 10 Hz to dodge them.

Phase & polarity

At the crossover frequency, the sub LP and mains HP each have phase shifts. With a 24 dB/oct Linkwitz-Riley, both are 360° at fc and add in phase with normal polarity — no inversion needed. With 12 dB/oct LR2 you typically need to invert the sub (or the mains, equivalently) for a flat sum. The tool picks the polarity automatically.

Gain trim and level matching

Setting the crossover frequency is only half the job. You also need to set the subwoofer's gain (volume) trim so the sub's output level matches the mains at the handoff point. Most AVRs handle this during auto-calibration (Audyssey MultEQ, Yamaha YPAO, Pioneer MCACC), but the calibration microphone is placed at the primary listening position only — trim the sub to −10 dBFS from there, or use a 80 Hz test tone and a SPL meter to match within ±1 dB. For music-only stereo systems without bass management, a real-time audio spectrum analyzer at the listening seat is the most practical level-matching tool.

What the tool can't do for you

This tool gives you a theoretically-optimal starting point. The real final crossover depends on your room's response (which a measurement mic like a UMIK-1 + REW will reveal), your sub's placement (corner = boundary gain), and your mains' actual in-room response (which is rarely flat to f3). Rooms with digital signal processing (DSP) from automatic room correction systems — Dirac Live, Audyssey XT32, or miniDSP — can also shift the apparent crossover behavior after correction. Use the recommendation as a target, then fine-tune by ear or by measurement.

Frequently Asked Questions

My AVR only offers fixed crossover steps (40, 60, 80…). Which do I pick?
Round the recommendation up to the nearest available step. Rounding up is safer than rounding down — it gives the sub more of the bass and protects the mains from being asked to produce frequencies they roll off below. So if the tool says 65 Hz and your AVR offers 60 or 80, pick 80.
What about LFE / .1 content from movies?
The LFE channel is a separate stream containing low-frequency effects (explosions, rumble) at 0–120 Hz with up to +10 dB extra headroom. Most receivers route LFE directly to the sub regardless of the music-bass crossover for the mains. The crossover you set with this tool is the bass-management crossover — what gets stripped from the mains and added to the sub. LFE bypasses that.
My sub has its own crossover knob. Use it or bypass?
If your AVR has bass management, set the sub's crossover knob to bypass (often labelled "LFE" or "Direct"), or to its maximum value. The AVR's crossover is more accurate and consistent. Only use the sub's knob if your source (a stereo preamp without bass management) doesn't have its own crossover.
Why does the recommendation jump 10 Hz when I change room size?
Because your room's axial modes shifted. If the new mode-1 frequency lands within ±6 Hz of where the recommendation was about to land, the tool nudges up by 10 Hz to put fc off the boom peak. You can see the modes as red dashed lines on the plot — try to keep your fc marker (yellow) away from them.
Can I trust the f3 number on my speaker's spec sheet?
Mostly yes — most reputable manufacturers spec −3 dB anechoic, which is a fair approximation of half-space (against-a-wall) response. Boundary gain from room placement extends low-frequency reach by 3–10 dB below 80 Hz, so your in-room f3 may be lower than the spec. If unsure, measure with a mic; otherwise the spec is a reasonable input here.
The plot's "sum" curve isn't flat. What does that mean?
It means the sub's LP and mains' HP don't add to a perfectly flat response in this configuration — usually because the chosen slope/alignment isn't perfectly complementary (Butterworth bumps +3 dB, the mains' natural f3 rolloff isn't a perfect Butterworth, etc.). LR4 with fc well above mains f3 gives the flattest blend. Small deviations of ±1–2 dB are normal and inaudible.
What about non-rectangular rooms or open-plan spaces?
Axial mode math assumes a closed box. Open-plan or odd-shaped rooms have weaker, less predictable modes (sometimes lower Q, sometimes shifted). The room-mode flag is a heuristic — for a non-rectangular space the recommendation without nudging is usually fine, and final tuning needs in-room measurement.
Should I use a higher crossover frequency for music than for movies?
Often yes, but for the opposite reason than most people expect. Movie sound design relies on frequencies below 80 Hz being non-directional (THX standard), so you never hear the sub's location. Music — especially acoustic bass, kick drum, and upright bass — contains information up to 100–150 Hz that can become "localizable" above ~100 Hz. If your mains can reach 60 Hz or lower, crossing over at 60–80 Hz for music keeps more tonal detail in the stereo image. If your mains roll off at 80 Hz or higher, stick to the 1.3× rule regardless of source material.
I have two subwoofers. Does the crossover frequency change?
No — the crossover frequency recommendation is still driven by your mains' −3 dB point. With dual subwoofers the bass is distributed more evenly across the room (seat-to-seat variation typically drops from ±8 dB to ±3 dB), and you may find that room-mode peaks are less severe. But the handoff frequency between mains and subs doesn't change because you added a second sub. You will need to match both subs' gain and phase to each other; a spectrum analyzer makes this visible in real time.
My AVR's auto-calibration (Audyssey / YPAO) already set a crossover. Should I override it?
Not necessarily. Auto-calibration systems measure your mains' in-room response and set a crossover based on the frequency where they actually roll off — which may differ from the spec-sheet f3. If the auto-cal chose 80 Hz and your mains spec says 60 Hz, that's reasonable: real-room responses rarely reach spec-sheet limits and the system is being conservative. Use this optimizer to double-check the logic; if the auto result is within one AVR step of this tool's recommendation, trust the measurement. If it's 40+ Hz off, investigate whether the calibration mic was placed correctly.